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Echophone EC-1B Was wondering if anyone has or knows where I can find the parts list that goes with the schematic. The schematics I have found are not very legible.
So I am re-doing one. After which, I will post it for anyone who wants a nice copy. Below we provide a NP parts illustrations to assist you with the correct identification of the parts you need.
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This information tag is located on rear of transfer case near where the driveshaft exits. Midwest Transmission can Cryogenic Treat any shaft or gear. I didn't take any photos because I was afraid I wouldn't be able to restore it and if I failed to restore it, I didn't want pictures to remind me of what I had failed to do.
Because of the terrible shape it was in and all it had endured while on the junk pile, I knew it was going to be quite a challenge to bring it back to life and t he following is the story of just how I did it. Restoring the Radio Physically I began by completely disassembling the radio down to the last screw and rivet so that I could get at all the insides.
I needed to do that in order to clean out the sludge and repaint everything. All the front switches had been riveted on and that prevented the chassis and case from coming apart.
I had to take a small diamond ball grinder and grind each rivet out one by one. Once the chassis was out of the case I scraped out and then scrubbed out the sludge with solvents, I sanded and carded off the rust with wire brushes, I repainted the case, cleaned the corrosion off of the tuning capacitors, removed all the sludge between their plates and then freed up the tuning mechanisms. Finally, I restrung the tuning capacitors and the bandspread slug mechanism with the same dacron string I use for leather stitching.
Once the fogged up front window was off, I discovered that the main tuning dial pointer was missing. My heart sank when I discovered that and for a while I thought that this missing pointer would be a real "show stopper" because where in the world would I get another pointer. I was in a funk and thought that it was useless to proceed any further, but then it dawned on me that I could make a reproduction dial pointer out of hardwood on my lathe and then paint it so it looked exactly like an original.
It turned out to be pretty easy to do and I am absurdly proud of how well my homemade pointer turned out. The original back panel had been made of Masonite so it was easy to cut out a panel of that material, drill and grind out the ventilation and access holes and make it look like an original. The truth is, if you perform the very necessary safety wiring modifications, you really don't need a back panel since its only function was to protect the operator from electrical shocks.
Once the radio is rewired for safety, the need for a Masonite panel goes away. Of course, having a rear panel is necessary to make the radio look original and it does look a little "unfinished" without its rear panel. The truth is, if I was to do it over again, I don't think I would have made a rear panel. The outside of the case was terribly rusted and there was no way I could salvage the original lettering. I worked hard to sand and wire brush the rust off of the case and when it was ready for painting, I searched for a "battleship gray" paint that matched the original.
The original paint was gray, but it had a slight blue tinge to it that is impossible to match. I tried various paints and they all looked terrible, but finally I found a "textured gray" outdoor paint that was not only rugged and chip proof, but it was close enough to the original color to please me. My biggest regret is that I have been unable to reproduce the white lettering on the front panel.
I had to resort to black stick-on lettering and I think you will agree with me that it looks really bad. Someday I hope to restore the lettering as it should look and if you can help me or offer any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it. Restoring the Radio Electronically It is a good thing that I didn't try to work on this radio when I was a kid because this is another one of those infamous "hot chassis" radios that should not be worked on by anybody unfamiliar with how to safely approach a chassis that at some point will be connected to the AC Line voltage and give the unaware repairman a terrible shock.
One of my main goals was to redesign this "hot chassis" radio so that it would be safe at all times, so I replaced all the rubber insulators and installed a grounded AC plug. I made sure the chassis would always be at AC Neutral and the case would be securely grounded. I decided that creating an isolated return bus, as I had done for the Sb, was a design over-kill that wasn't at all necessary, so I satisfied myself with insulating the chassis and securely tying it to AC Neutral through the use of a polarized, grounded AC plug.
The way I have my radio now, it is now a very safe radio and with the case grounded as it is, it would probably be safe to use in the bathroom although I certainly don't recommend doing so. I am so confident in my radio's safety that I would think nothing of leaving it on day and night unattended. I have no fear it could possibly overheat it only draws 30 watts or that the radio could possibly start a fire. I believe that the Internet is the greatest development for the spread of knowledge since the development of writing, so thanks to the Internet I was able to capture a useful copy of this radio's schematic diagram.
I spent a lot of time carefully redrawing the schematic for clarity and to draw in all the changes and corrections I made and needed to make. Without a good schematic to work to, the job of restoring or repairing one of these old radios is impossible, therefore all the many hours I spent redrawing this diagram for clarity and accuracy was well worth it.
And here I am offering it to you for free. Such a deal. With the help of the schematic, I replaced all the capacitors except for the five silver mica capacitors, which almost never need replacing. All the other capacitors were in horrible shape and would have had to be replaced even if they weren't already half melted. All the resistors were still good as they almost always are, so none of them were replaced except the ohm resistor that is almost always found overheated because of a failed lamp.
If the ohm resistor is replaced with a 2 or 3 watt unit, you won't ever have to replace it even if your lamp fails. One thing that I noticed was that somebody had tried to replace the electrolytic capacitors way back in the mid s and had made some wrong wring connections. The workmanship of the soldering was really poor too, so obviously the radio had been worked on by somebody who didn't know radios.
Of course the radio wouldn't work with these mistakes, so that's probably why the radio was in the disassembled state I found it in and why it had been put on the junk pile in the first place. Completing the Project and Plugging it in for the First Time in 50 Years After I had all the new parts in and I had the chassis back in the case, it was time for "the moment of truth" -- that is, for me to turn on the radio and see if it would actually work once again after all it had been through.
Now, I had really done my homework and had triple checked all the wiring and all the circuits in the radio before I even plugged it in.
The very first time I plugged it in and turned it on, sound came out of the speaker. To tell the truth, I was sure it would work, but I was mildly surprised and pleased that it worked so well and played so loudly because I thought I'd have to do some troubleshooting and maybe replace an ancient tube or two and maybe do a lot of alignment work on the RF and IF sections. But there it was, able to tune in stations loud and clear after this radio had been silent for over 50 years.
I was somewhat sobered by the thought that here I am, the first person to hear this radio since it had last been used by the people there at Hancock Field over 50 years ago. From the period from about until the mid s, many people must have used this radio both for entertainment and for official flight operations.
Now, after all this time, all those people, including Captain Hancock, a man who had done so much for his country, have died and are resting somewhere mostly forgotten. Yes, all those hot-shot pilots and adventurers in their dashing uniforms and their leather flying jackets and jaunty military caps, those eager young men going off to war are all gone and who remembers them?
Gone too are the huge aircraft with their powerful engines, and yet, here's this inexpensive little radio with its outlandish collection of metal parts, wires and vacuum tubes. With everything else lost in time, it alone has somehow endured and it has been brought back to life once again. It is not mute because voice and music still plays through it, but it can not tell us of the people and times it has been a witness to.
OK, enough of all that mushy sentimental stuff, back to the story. I ran a complete tune up on the radio, but it was so close to an ideal tune that I didn't really improve it's already "hot" performance. There was a very fine broken wire in the tapped inductor, but I was able to find the end under the wax near where it had been soldered to its lead. I was able to free enough slack to resolder it to the lead and after that the BFO worked, but was way out of adjustment.
One of the great things about the EC-1 series of radios is that they do have a "real" beat frequency oscillator, but the original configuration of the oscillator tube and its circuit doesn't work all that well.
I slightly modified how the BFO signal was tapped off from the oscillator circuit at the lowest impedance point of the Hartley Oscillator tube's cathode and changed where the BFO signal is injected. I immediately noticed a vast improvement in audio quality, especially on single side band.
Locating the end of the wire that radiates the BFO signal is somewhat critical. You should not couple to pin 2 of the 12SL7 IF tube too closely or you will "swamp" the tube by overloading it. If your radio gets quiet when you turn on the BFO, you need to move the end of the wire away from pin 2 until it sounds right. In fact, the "rushing" white noise sound should increase when you turn on the BFO. You want a strong signal injected here to match the strength of strong signals coming in on single sideband and CW, but too much will overload the IF tube and cause you to loose signals.
If you need to change your IF tube for any reason, you might want to readjust the location of the end of the BFO wire. I found that the BFO signal "injected" there caused the stronger SSB signals to be demodulated very poorly or not demodulated at all. An AM detector which is what the diode section is must have a "carrier wave" for the sidebands to "beat" against to produce audio. I found that if you supply your artificial carrier at a low level before the IF amplifier input the 12SK7, pin 4 then the diode detector works quite well at demodulating SSB.
The only thing is, you have to be careful because there is a lot of amplification done by the IF tube and so you must very lightly couple the kHz BFO signal to it or you will "swamp" the tube with too much signal. I had to locate the end of the wire coming from the BFO quite a ways from pin 4 the grid of the IF amplifier for it to work properly. Once the wire is in place though, the BFO's operation is very stable and it works great.
Most of the time the BFO doesn't need adjusting, but if yours is not working properly, you can adjust it. It really helps to have a frequency counter and set the output of the BFO to KHz, but a quick and dirty method is to tune in a station for maximum strength. That way, the station is very near the center of your IF transformers' pass band. Turn on the BFO and tune it so the squeal gets lower and lower in pitch until it disappears or is just a low hum. That's all you have to do and you should not touch it ever again.
By the way, one really great way to find broadcast stations on the shortwave bands is to turn on the BFO and listen for loud "whistles" as you tune up and down the dial with the main tuning control. When you hear a whistle, tune as close to "zero beat" as possible and then turn off the BFO. Trim up the signal with the bandspread control and you have a nicely tuned in shortwave station to listen to. For me, this is probably the most useful thing a BFO does.
A Highly Specialized Modification Here is something that is pretty specialized and I don't expect many people would want to do this. I connected one side of a 2. The modification has absolutely no effect on the performance of the radio, but it allows me to have two radios turned on with one on standby without the local oscillators "talking" to each other and messing up side-by-side comparisons of the two radios performance.
For most people, this is a completely unnecessary modification. Some Antenna and Other Tips These radios did not come with a built in loop antenna for the AM broadcast band as did almost every other AM radio of its era.
They were designed as a long range, more technical general coverage radio and as such they need an outside wire antenna of some kind. The fact is, these radios are very "hot" if used with a wire antenna of as little as 20 feet, but for great performance especially on the short wave bands , the best antennas are as long as you can make them. When putting up an antenna, try to go vertical as quickly and as high as you can before going horizontal to minimize noise pick up.
When working at heights, please be careful. Try to keep the antenna away from noisy devices like motors and especially fluorescent lights. If you have pieces of metal that rub together in the wind, try to clamp them down otherwise they will generate noise. You will notice on the back of your radio there are three screw lugs for the antenna system. When using an untuned long wire antenna, only the A1 lug should be used and that little jumper tab should connect A2 to the GND lug. The A2 lug should only be used with a tuned and balanced antenna system that is beyond the scope of most users.
I would suggest that you not try to connect the GND or the A2 lugs to an actual ground as you may introduce some serious noise and hum that way. Anyway, the wonderful thing about these old radios is the opportunity to experiment around and find out what works best for you with what you have. I was expecting this radio to have slightly more electrical noise than my Sb with its isolated return bus, but actually it is just as quiet with its chassis connected to AC Neutral.
This is a very fun radio to play with and doubly so knowing that it once belonged to Captain G. Allan Hancock and was once part of his flight operations there at Hancock Field.
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